PDACPA: September 2006

Tailgating Krewe

As usual, a work in process. Our tailgate website is constantly under construction and being updated.

www.karrollwoodtailgatingkrewe.com

Angel eyes - DTM Power

Angel eyes - DTM Power: "In my opinion, that all depends on where you plan on placing the switch.

Step 1: Locate a wire near that location that has constant power.
Using the cigarette lighter for example or possibly the line leading to the glove box light (you need find the one leading to trigger, not after, or you will have to have you glove box open to have the lights on, ha). There are a plethera of different options.

Step 2: Once you have located that wire, you can start the process. Run the power wire off the inverter (I think that the CCFL lights come with a power invertor) to your switch location.

Step 3: Ground out the CCFL tubes from the invertor.

Step 4: Run a wire, spliced off of your chosen constant power line (ie. cigerette lighter), to the switch location.

Step 5: Plug both the consant power wire and power lines from the lights into each prong on the switch (lighted switches will have 3 prongs and you will have a ground)

Then you can test to see if they work which they should, unless I have missed something.
If, by chance, there is no inverter, you will want to install an inline fuse from the lights to restrict amperage.
I hope this helps."

12v switched in steering column or in area - E46Fanatics

12v switched in steering column or in area - E46Fanatics: "Two locations in that area:
1. Phone harness behind the e-brake. Check with meter, as different E46's have different colors and there are several brown wires, but only one of them is ground.
2. Radio harness. The harness runs up the left side behind the ashtray/sunglass holder area, so you don't even need to take the radio out. On that harness, brown=- and violet=+switched."

Angel Eyes Remote Kit Install Diy - E46Fanatics

Angel Eyes Remote Kit Install Diy - E46Fanatics: "Ahh - I think I see what you're doing. I don't have an engineering background so it's a little over my head, but I kinda follow what you're doing. I'd love to see how it works out, it would be incredibly simple.

For those who don't have a wiring harness with their kit - a typical wiring harness would look something like this (more complicated):

Plugging into the female relay connector slots:

Slot 30 - two wires (different lengths) crimped together with a female spade connector into the female relay connector - they run off to the ballast/inverters and plug into those positive wires via bullet splices
Slot 85 - one wire to the ECU trigger wire (T-tap connector)
Slot 86 - three wires crimped to a female spade connector into the female relay connector - one of those wires then leading to ground the other two (different lengths) lead to the negative wires of the ballasts/inverters and are connected by bullet splices.
Slot 87 - wire (with fuse holder) connected to the positive battery terminal]
Slot 87a - reserved for the interior light trigger mod.

You can see the bottom of the female relay connector in the post above referred to as Step Three - that's where all the wires plug into and then the relay sits on top on the other side. I'd estimate the cost to make this type of a wiring harness to be roughly about $25 bucks in materials including the relay (or if you made it from scratch with an SPDT relay - adding in the remote mod would only be about $5 more for another fuse holder and some connectors). For a few more bucks add wire loom and make it a cleaner install."